Been playing this game on and off for a long time, and had a light bulb moment that's shocking in its simplicity. Commander icons degenerate WvW gameplay immensely. When players don't have Commander icons to follow, WvW feels like the large-scale MMO PvP it's supposed to be.
I just ran around in a game where no realm had a commander online. The encounters were much more organic, with individuals making spacing, pushing, aggression, and defensive decisions with the flow of the battle. People were more spread out, and there were localized encounters happening everywhere around a contested objective. It was exactly as I expected large-scale fantasy MMO PvP to be -- players making snap decisions to work together and push a hole in an enemy's defense or chase a splinter group that was isolated. In fact, there was time to make those decisions and for full fights to play out, with players actually using their abilities.
Commander icons promote gameplay that is explicitly less fun and more frustrating than this. Everyone just follows a marker like lemmings, zerging into degenerate un-fun train-crashes of stacked effects. If you're at the front, you die in milliseconds. Enjoy your run back. If you're at the back, maybe you escape. But it's over in a flash. I cannot for the life of me see why new players want their hand held by a Commander icon only to be led into incomprehensible, garbage encounters like this where they learn nothing.
This is all to say that I just learned how to have fun in GW2 WvW, but whether a commander is present is entirely out of my control. I just have to roll the dice and hope none is online for any side. If I were a PvP designer at Anet, I'd remove them.
And I'd also make a 1-minute tutorial video explaining objectives and how to assault them, accessible anytime from the WvW window, so that nobody needs commanders.